It was a great trip: Serbia was cozy and delicious. I often met hospitable people. Let me tell you what I saw in each city.
Serbia is worthy of a full-fledged trip through it. Belgrade should not be used only as a stopover before traveling to neighboring countries
That's the kind of train I used to ride in the canyons
Belgrade
What to do: Explore three atmospheric districts of the Serbian capital, watch the sunset at the fortress and relax at the Ada Ciganlija resort.
About the city: the capital and largest city in Serbia. It has been destroyed and rebuilt many times in its two hundred year history, most recently after the NATO bombing of Yugoslavia in 1999 during the war in Kosovo.
One of the main attractions of the city is the Belgrade Fortress. Usually tourists walk to it along the pedestrian street Kneza Mihaila, which starts at Republic Square and ends at Kalemegdan Park. The walk takes 25 minutes. I chose an atypical route an hour longer to get to know the Old Town better.
From Kneza Mihaila Street, I turned away from the crowds of tourists onto the quiet Vuk Karadzic Street and walked to the rooster fountain in a small square. It has no name, four streets intersect here, the landmark is the Crveni Petao café. The atmosphere reminded me of Paris: houses drowned in greenery, the smell of fresh pastries, and at the tables of street cafes relaxed visitors. Here I went to the Italian gelateria Sapore and got a pistachio gelato - it was wonderful, almost like in Florence. I paid 140 RSD (118 ₽) for one ball.
Further down the road was the Museum of Applied Arts. I wasn't interested in it, but I went to the souvenir shop and bought postcards of Belgrade for 120 RSD (101 ₽). Then I stopped by the house of merchant and banker Dimitrij Živadinović, it is located opposite the fountain with the rooster. Its front room was done in the Art Nouveau style. It is not for nothing that the building was recognized as a cultural heritage site: when you enter a residential building, you enter an art gallery where the walls and ceiling are painted with floral patterns.
The square by the rooster fountain is quiet and there are no crowds, just people leisurely drinking coffee
The front door of Dimitriji Živadinović's house is usually open, if not, wait for someone to come out, it's worth it
Serbs like to spend time with a cup of coffee in the local taverns - kafanas. I went to the oldest one in town, Znak Pitanja. Its courtyard is a nice place to take shelter from the heat. There I got a domaća kafa - homemade coffee - for 130 RSD (110 ₽). It was served in a turk with loukoum and a glass of water. The flavor reminded me of Turkish coffee - I recommend it.
Further down the street is Princess Lubica's palace, which is a museum of the interior of 19th century houses. I only toured it from the outside. A ticket for adults in 2023 costs 300 RSD (253 ₽), for pupils and students it's 150 RSD (127 ₽), children under 7 go free. The museum is closed on Mondays.
Afterwards, I turned onto Kosancicev Venac - one of the oldest streets in Belgrade - and followed the sidewalk to the fortress. I really enjoyed walking along the quiet and beautiful streets of my route.
Free water is served with home-made coffee
Kosancicev Venac Street - photogenic location
On the territory of the Belgrade Fortress there are monuments from the times of the Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian empires, but many Belgraders come here not for history, but just for a walk.
The fortress is open 24 hours a day, and admission is free. One of its main points is the Victory Monument, a symbol of liberation from the Ottoman Empire. The quickest way to reach it is through the gate on the side of Vojvoda Božović Boulevard, the landmark is the Stećak Museum. From the observation deck next to the monument you have a view of the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers. On one side I saw the high-rises of New Belgrade, and on the other side endless green river islets. The city was memorable for just such contrasts.
The Belgrade Fortress is the city dwellers' favorite place to watch the sunset. It is worth coming here closer to evening
On the territory of the fortress I was most impressed by the church of Ružica, or the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary. It was destroyed during the First World War and the soldiers rebuilt the building. The church hall is small and there is not enough light inside, but I wanted to stay there longer and look at the details. I was alone in the temple, so I got even more vivid emotions.
After seeing the sunset near the Despot's Gate - which is one of the surviving fragments from the 15th century - I walked back into the Old Town to Knez Michael Street through Kalemegdan Park. It was a stark contrast: I had just passed cannons and weapons, and in the park I was greeted by dinosaur figures. Whether there is a connection between theses two is a mystery to me.
Continued with the Belgraders at the Despot's Gate
In the Old Town, I enjoyed walking around the Skadarlija neighborhood the most - it's Parisian Montmartre in Serbian. In the late 19th and 20th centuries, musicians, actors and artists lived here. Now there are many restaurants in the quarter, each with live music. To immerse yourself in the atmosphere of the Old Town, just walk down the main street Skadarlija, but I don't recommend eating here: the prices are overpriced.
For the main Serbian street food - pleskavica, a flat cutlet of minced meat - I went to Loki. It is an unremarkable place from the outside and inside, but judging by the number of Belgraders in line, the restaurant is popular. The menu here is in Serbian, but everything is intuitive. My pleskavica for 260 RSD (219 ₽) had chopped cutlet, onions and cabbage - very juicy. The restaurant is not open in 2023.
In June 2021, due to coronavirus restrictions at Loki, you couldn't sit inside and there were several tables near the entrance
On the other side of the Danube is New Belgrade. Buses No. 15, 84, 704 and 707 run there from the city center. The trip takes 15 minutes, the fare in 2023 costs 89 RSD (75 ₽), and cards are accepted. But you can't use a Russian bank card in 2023: Visa, Mastercard, American Express and JCB cards don't work abroad. But you can use cards of foreign banks, such as Belarus or Kazakhstan.
In the new part of the city there are no historical monuments, but ordinary life is boiling. The peculiarity of the neighborhood is the rafts, in Serbian “splavovi”. These are landing stages that have been converted into restaurants, clubs, hostels and hotels. I stayed in one of them - the Bahus Inn. I paid 38 € (3754 ₽) for a night in a room with a terrace overlooking the Danube and a continental breakfast. In 2023, a night at this hotel costs from 8600 ₽.
The room didn't feel like I was on the water. But when I opened the door to the terrace and breathed in the Danube air, I realized what a good choice I had made.
I walked from New Belgrade along the Zemunski Key promenade to Zemun, a neighborhood that was an independent city of Austria-Hungary until 1930. The drive took 30 minutes. Here I rejoiced that Serbs know how to enjoy life. In the evening, the promenade is full of vacationers: people feeding swans, drinking cocktails on rafting trips or just sitting on benches and admiring the views of the Danube.
Wherever I go, I always try to climb higher to see the city from above. In Zemun, I climbed the spiral staircase to the Gardos Tower, or Millennium. From there you have a gorgeous view of the Danube and the red tiled roofs of Zemun. It's cozy and feels like a provincial Western European town.
The climb is not difficult and took 5 minutes. Entrance to the observation deck in 2023 costs 200 RSD (169 ₽) and only cash is accepted. It is open from 10:00 am to 7:00 pm.
After walking around the neighborhood, I stopped by Cafeteria Gardos, a stylish place to grab a bite to eat in the garden on the upper terrace overlooking the waterfront. I paid 620 RSD (523 ₽) for a cappuccino and two large prosciutto bruschetta.
It was +38°C in Belgrade in June, and I wanted to escape the heat. The best place for that was the Ada Ciganlija river peninsula. At the end of the 1960s, it was connected to the shore, thus creating the artificial Lake Sava. From the city center to the peninsula goes bus number 56, 20 minutes drive.
Ada Ciganlija is a free recreation area with a pebble beach with toilets and changing rooms, water entertainment, golf and tennis courses, playgrounds, restaurants. I took a bike here, in 2021 an hour's rental cost 260 RSD (219 ₽). They gave a 10% discount when paying with a Mastercard card. I left my driver's license as collateral. The peninsula is small - it took me an hour to get around. I rode in the shade of trees, and then bathed in the Savsky lake. The water in it is the cleanest and warmest.
Subotica
Distance from the capital: 180 kilometers
Things to do: see the Secession-style gingerbread buildings and visit the McDonald's in the town hall.
How to get there from Belgrade: by bus from the bus station. I didn't pay attention to the bus numbers: intercity transportation has specific directions, such as “Belgrade - Subotica”. Travel time is 2.5 hours. In 2021, a fare cost 1100 RSD (929 ₽). In 2023, the average price rose to 1350 RSD (1140 ₽).
Bus travel in Serbia is comfortable: the seats are comfortable and there is air conditioning. There are frequent connections between cities, but it is better to check the schedule at the bus station's information desk: it does not always coincide with the information on the website. Belgrade bus station in 2021 accepted only cash.
About the city: The northernmost city of Serbia in the autonomous province of Vojvodina. The Austro-Hungarian influence is most noticeable in the architecture of this region, as this part of present-day Serbia passed from the Ottoman Empire to the Habsburg dynasty at the end of the 17th century.
Subotica, or Szabad, means “free” in Hungarian. But if one word were to characterize the city, it would be “bright” because of its atypical Serbian architecture. Most of the buildings were built in the Secession style, which is the same as Art Nouveau, but with Hungarian motifs.
From the bus station to the center of Subotica is a 15-minute walk. I started my walk from Reichl Park. There are two Secession-style buildings here: the oldest is the house of Simeon Leovic, built in 1893, and the more unusual one is the palace of architect Ferenc Reichl, which was erected in 1904. The building has a lot of details on the facade. It reminded me of Gaudi's architecture in Barcelona - the same bright colors and curved lines.
Architect Reichl built the palace as a home and office. It is now home to the Gallery of Modern Art.
Across the street from the park, the pedestrianized Corzo Street begins. Among the buildings with cafes and restaurants I saw two more representatives of secession. House No. 3 is the former Golden Lamb Hotel with a green facade, and building No. 4 is the Trade Bank building decorated with Hungarian Zsolnay ceramics. Both buildings, like most of the houses in the center of Subotica, have been restored and look like new. I enjoyed walking around such a gingerbread colored town.
All the streets of Subotica lead to the Republic Square to the Subbotica Town Hall, the tallest building in the city, which was built in 1912. This is where the city government, the mayor's office and city services are located.
The Town Hall has a hall called “Velika Vecnica”, decorated with stained glass windows with portraits of the rulers of Hungary. You can see them and climb up to the Town Hall observation deck only on a guided tour. They are held from Tuesday to Friday at 12:00 noon. In 2023, a ticket costs 300 RSD (253 ₽). Unfortunately, I didn't have time for the tour, so I only got a glimpse of the colorful facade with Hungarian national motifs.
Also in the town hall building is a stylish McDonald's. I didn't eat anything there, I only went in for the interior to look at the stained glass windows, chandeliers and wrought iron staircases.
In unusual Subotica, even the synagogue stands out with its appearance. It was built in 1903 and is the second largest synagogue in Europe after the one in Budapest. The massive dome was made of ceramic, and the interior was done in the Hungarian Art Nouveau style: there are light colors, colorful stained glass windows and floral patterns on the walls. I was delighted with the synagogue.
It costs 250 RSD (211 ₽) to enter in 2023. The synagogue is open to the public Tuesday through Friday from 10:00 am to 6:00 pm, closing at 2:00 pm on weekends.
Novi Sad
Distance from the capital: 100 kilometers
Things to do: See Austro-Hungarian architecture and a 17th-century fortress.
How to get there from Belgrade: by bus. It is better to check the schedule at the bus station information desk. A ticket to Novi Sad in 2021 costs 870 RSD (734 ₽), and 620 RSD (523 ₽) return. In 2023 a bus ticket costs from 800 RSD (675 ₽).At the Novi Sad bus station, foreign bank cards are accepted, Russian cards will not work. Travel time is 1.5 hours.
It takes 36 minutes to get from Belgrade to Novi Sad by train. A one-way ticket costs from 373 RSD (315 ₽).
About the city: the cultural capital of Serbia and the main city of the autonomous province of Vojvodina. It was founded in the mid-17th century as a settlement for Orthodox Serbs. From the mid-19th century until 1918, Novi Sad was the center of Serbian culture in Austria-Hungary. The Habsburg heritage is evident in the architecture - I never left feeling that I was in a Western European city.
It takes 25 minutes to walk from the bus station to the center, passing through Liberation Boulevard. This is where the usual residential neighborhoods of Novi Sad are located: gray tall paneled houses with stores, bakeries, and shoe repair stores on the first floors.
After looking at this unremarkable picture, I turned to Jewish Street, where the Art Nouveau synagogue is located. It resembles a beautiful Victorian castle. I managed to get there while preparing for the concert: during rehearsals, admission to the synagogue is free.
I walked along Jewish Street to the heart of the city, Liberty Square, where St. Mary's Catholic Church is located. It was built in 1895 in neo-Gothic style. The bell tower and roof were covered with Hungarian ceramics - in this I found similarities with St. Matyas Cathedral in Budapest.
On the right is the Church of St. Mary, and in the center of the square stands the monument to the town governor Svetozar Miletić, who led the town in the 19th century
Jovan Zmaj's pedestrian street begins at Freedom Square. At its end is one of the most striking buildings in Novi Sad - the palace of the Bishop of the Diocese of Bača with Byzantine elements. Against the background of pastel residential buildings, it stands out with its red and yellow facade. Tourists are not allowed into the palace, so I only saw it from the outside. But the nearby 18th century St. George's Cathedral is open to the public. From the outside it attracts attention with its baroque decor of the bell tower with a clock, and inside - an iconostasis with marble columns and 33 paintings with Gospel subjects. It looks extraordinary.
Afterward I stopped for lunch at Cafe Veliki, it is located a 5 minute walk from the cathedral. The cuisine of Vojvodina is similar to Hungarian cuisine. I enjoyed the goulash on my trip to Budapest, so it was interesting to compare how it is prepared in Serbia. Verdict: Novisad's is just as good as the Hungarian one. A large portion cost 590 RSD (498 ₽). In 2023, goulash at this cafe will cost 950 RSD (802 ₽).
On the other side of the Danube stands the Petrovaradin Fortress. It was built in the 17th century. Before the emergence of Novi Sad, Petrovaradin was a separate settlement, but now it is one of the city districts. During the Austro-Hungarian rule, Petrovaradin became the largest fortress on the Danube.
You can cross the river by the Varadin Bridge. I climbed the stairs to the fortress from the side of Strosmeyer Street. The way took 15 minutes, but in +36 °C this time seemed like an eternity to me, although in fact the climb is not difficult.
The entrance to the fortress is free. Inside the fortress there are fragments of fortifications. You can walk around the territory in 20 minutes. At the top, at the Sahat Tower, there is a beautiful panorama of the Danube and Novi Sad. I liked the view from the observation deck more than the fortress itself.
Since 2001, the annual EXIT music festival has been held on the territory of the fortress. In 2023 it was held on July 6-9. The ticket cost 109 € (10,767 ₽).
Sremski Karlovci
Distance from the capital: 65 kilometers
What to do: Visit wineries and see the architecture of the main square
How to get there: from Belgrade by public transportation. The bus takes a little over an hour, the train 45-50 minutes. Any option in 2023 will cost around 340-500 RSD (287-422 ₽).From Novi Sad, take regional bus #61 or 62. It is convenient to take them after a walk around Petrovaradinska Fortress at the Beogradska-Lisinskog stop. The journey takes 20 minutes and a 2023 fare costs 125 RSD (106 ₽). An electric train will make the journey in 8 minutes, the ticket costs the same.
About the place: a provincial town in the Vojvodina region. Sremski Karlovci is located between the Danube and the Fruska Gora National Park, so the town has become a center of attraction on Serbia's wine road.
Winemaking has been active here since the 17th century. There are 36 wineries in one small town. The main drink is a strong dessert wine based on herbs and spices. It was offered on the tables of the royal families of Europe and on the wine list of the Titanic. Each winery has its own recipe.
The oldest winery in Sremski Karlovci, Kiš, was founded in 1830. I attended a free tasting at their store in the center of town.
The wineries themselves, including Kiš, are located on Karlováčkog Mira Street, in a cottage village - it is a 20-minute walk from the city center. Grapes grow right on the slopes of Fruska Gora, and the houses have private wine cellars where tastings are held. To taste drinks at the wineries, you have to book a place for a tasting on their websites. Only adults can participate.
This is how most wineries in Sremski Karlovci look like
I recommend visiting Sremski Karlovci: it has nice baroque and neoclassical architecture and many historical buildings. For example, opposite the wineries is the Peace Chapel. It was built on the site of a wooden building where the Peace of Karlovice was signed in 1699 between Austria-Hungary, the Ottoman Empire, the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth and the Republic of Venice.
Zlatibor
Mokra Hora
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